DMN Pans Rohst; Dough Fails Authenticity Test

Here's where the critics ate this week:

OBSERVER -- Scott Reitz eats at Dough Pizzeria Napoletana, noting that it's playing a little fast and loose with its claims to Vera Pizza Napoletana authenticity, on which he gives a lot of fascinating, fact-filled background. He writes: "None of the four pizzas I tried over two visits should meet the VPN standards." The toppings were "wonderful," but he says the burrata's "stiff and dry."

DMN -- Leslie Brenner visits Meso Maya in North Dallas, which she gives three stars: "I almost, almost felt I was lounging under a palapa in Baja California." She wishes for a "livelier margarita" but loves the cochinita pibíl and the chicken enchilada with a "rich mole negro."

DFW.COM -- Another Dough review comes from Teresa Gubbins, who says the restaurant's non-VPN pies are crispier than other VPN joints in town, and that Dough focuses more on the "interplay between meat, crust and cheese" than toppings. Unlike Reitz, she likes the burrata, calling it "luscious."

D MAGAZINE -- Nancy Nichols visits Mesa Veracruz Coastal Cuisine in Oak Cliff and says "this gringa would gladly eat any dish on Mesa’s menu." The interior is "stunning" and the food an "uplifting experience." She says they've got the best mole in Dallas and is "hopelessly addicted" to their oxtail.

DMN -- Rohst on Lower Greenville gets just one star from Mark Vamos, who says the empty dining room was a bad sign to start. And then there were the "tepid" barbecue pork ribs: "This suggestion of hasty reheating mars several of the offerings at Rohst." He says much better Korean food can be found elsewhere, at a third of the price.

FORT WORTH WEEKLY -- Laurie Barker James eats at Tollie's Barbecue in Arlington, where they "define moist." Their dry rub and sauce are heavy with pepper and the brisket "so flavorfully smoky that you barely need any barbecue sauce." She loved the "juicy center" of the whole sausage, too.

[Photo: Dough/Facebook]