Maybe wait until this evening after work, after you've slipped into something a little more comfortable, to read Scott "Hipster Dreamboat" Reitz's review of Local, the Deep Ellum restaurant that's been quietly kicking trendy restaurant ass on Elm Street since 2003. Oh, but we shouldn't use such violent language for a restaurant that Reitz feels is so very smooth, writing, "what I care about most when I'm dining out is feeling comfortable and eating well. Local accomplishes both."
Key phraseology from this week's review, referring variously to past praise, decor and a soup: "gently spooning," "sleek little restaurant," and "like soft silk on the palate." Talk dirty to us about Tracy Miller's tasting menu, Scott Reitz!
But while most chefs use them to showcase new, rare ingredients, combat boredom and keep their kitchens fresh, Miller exercises restraint with her degustation. Instead of constantly hunting for new techniques and presentations, she looks inward to her existing menu, miniaturizing her favorite dishes and, when the mood strikes, supplementing them with a little something extra.Reitz finds fault only with panko-crusted potato croquettes, which "let [him] down," heirloom tomatoes and a lobster cake that was "almost too delicate."
[Photo: Melody L./Yelp]