Leslie Brenner at the DMN recently gave Greenville Avenue staple The Grape a two-star review, and now it looks like she's playing with fire: the fire of D Magazine food critic Nancy Nichols' ire. Nichols absolutely loves Brian Luscher's place, and she's not mincing words this morning, writing on SideDish, "I'm going to make this quick and clean: Dallas Morning News restaurant critic Leslie Brenner doesn't understand Dallas."
Nichols says Brenner has "kicked a faithful old dog" with her uncharitable review, and she's also not crazy about Brenner's two-star take on The Commissary. But the Grape thing, she says, really hurts. After all, it's not for nothing that Texas Monthly named the Grape's burger the best in Texas. We can't decide: is Nichols too loyal, or Brenner too critical?
UPDATE: Eater e-mailed Brenner to get her take, and she took the high (and classy, and vaguely rebuking-of-us) road saying, "I didn't take Nancy's post as a "diss"; I take it as her opinion."
[Photo: The Grape on Facebook]