Here's what's happening in restaurant reviews this week, with bonus two-fer from the Dallas Morning News' Leslie Brenner.
DMN -- Brenner gives two stars to Bistro Watel's, René Peeters' place in the old York Street space in Lakewood. Despite her praise for Peeters' Belgian endives and Indian-accented quail, as well as the comfortable, at-home atmosphere, she says "nothing I tasted wowed me."
DFW.COM -- Steve Watkins visits Bodacious Bar-B-Q on Division Street in Arlington and writes "this is no strip-mall chain store." He has high praise for the decor (or lack thereof) and when it comes to the ribs, "Bodacious nailed both flavor and texture on these pigsickles." The sausage didn't especially impress, but and Watkins went light on the sauce: "As any BBQ hound knows, good meat doesn't require much sauce."
DMN -- Zafaron Grill in North Dallas earns three stars from Brenner. Chef Mehrnosh Fathalizadeh is "turning out some of the best kebabs in town" and "beautifully prepared cold appetizers." Skip the stews, she recommends, and go hungry for huge portions at the Persian grill.
DALLAS OBSERVER -- Scott Reitz likes but doesn't love Craft, which he says struggles with consistency--scallops "oscillated," an unevenly browned saffron tart was a "hiccup." But with a poached egg, Craft's snail dish becomes "creamy bliss," and Reitz recommends the okra "suspended in a smokey tomato puree."
The Craft dining room. [Photo: Craft Dallas/Official]