In her review this week, Leslie Brenner found Plano's Nosh Euro Bistro to be deserving of three stars. She enjoyed blackboard specials like tempuraed Brussels sprouts, white bean soup, and the not-exactly paella entree. And the menu's starters were pleasing as well, but Brenner couldn't say as much for the regular entrees.
"More often than not, Nosh's dishes are fine, but nothing special. That goes for most of the main courses I sampled -- a mixed-grill special; grilled quail served over a cauliflower-bacon mash; grilled beef tenderloin medallions with green peppercorn butter; lamb shank braised not quite long enough."Though Brenner's review was even-handed, at least one reader was confused by the 3-star rating.
Today, on Eats Blog, Brenner acknowledges the confusion, specifically, that which came from reader Rubber Nose, who wrote, "This sure doesn't read like a three star review." She also responds.
She gives readers a peek behind the curtain with a full run down on how Nosh Plano got its three stars. An excerpt:
"But at Nosh, it wasn't that straightforward, for the following reason: A number of the appetizers, and one main course special (the "paella" risotto) were knock-outs -- dishes so good that if everything had been at that level, I would have rated the restaurant four. With that many excellent dishes available, I wouldn't rate the place less than three. In any case, as you can see, star ratings cannot be assigned by any kind of straight formula -- the critic's general sense of where the restaurant stands, among all the restaurants in the area, needs to pull dozens of considerations into focus."Brenner also reminds readers of the general rating system that once accompanied every review. Apparently, it will again.
5 stars (Extraordinary): Defines fine dining in the regionRegardless of any specific restaurant being discussed, it's hard not enjoy this little bit of transparency in the critical process.
4 stars (Excellent): One of the finest restaurants in Dallas-Fort Wort
3 stars (Very good): A destination restaurant for this type of dining
2 stars (Good): Commendable effort, but experience can be uneven
1 stars (Fair): Experience is generally disappointing
No stars: Poor
Nosh Plano. [Photo: Atali Samuel Carr for Nosh Euro Bistro/Facebook]