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Boulevardier opened its doors July 31 to lofty expectations. Mike Hiller of Escape Hatch declared it "the best restaurant to open in Dallas this year" while it was still in soft-opening mode, and Madame Critic Leslie Brenner is calling it "the hottest new restaurant of the season" well in advance of filing an actual review. Indeed, the arrival of a French bistro from brothers Brooks and Bradley Anderson (owners of Henderson Avenue wine bar Veritas) and chefs Nathan Tate and Randall Copeland (of Rockwall's Restaurant Ava) was eagerly anticipated by local critics and mere mortals alike. It's been one month since Boulevardier opened in Bishop Arts, too soon for the critics to weigh in—but what's the general consensus thus far? Read on to see what's being said about Boulevardier:
The See-and-Be-Scene News: Advocate Mag sets the scene: "The interior is much more welcoming than what the prior occupants had done, primarily because the bar/restaurant space has been opened up and there is a palpable airy ambiance. What this means, of course, is that there is more noise (very bistro-ish) in the dining area. All in all, a place to be seen but also fit for foodies." Foodbitch goes into more detail on the setting, noting, "The scene was set with French linens, crisp white walls and rich woods. The players were all dressed in tailored, plaid button-downs and freshly pressed aprons." [City of Ate]
The Ethereally Light Beignets News: One Yelper praises the crawfish beignets, saying "although fried, they tasted very light and airy". CraveDFW suggests they're so good, they may incite a riot: "The beignets were so light, so puffy, and so perfect. One order is enough for two, but you might brawl for the last one." [CraveDFW]
The Charcuterie Nirvana News: A snacking Dallas Diva offers her thoughts on the housemade charcuterie plate including beef tongue pastrami, pork rillettes, and gravlax, declaring that "paired with the crusty grilled bread, it was all a faceful of nirvana." [The Dallas Diva]
The Delicious Red Meat News: Escape Hatch seconds the Diva's feelings on salumi and also offers insight on the red meat offerings, saying "The best dishes I ate, by the way, were that charcuterie, the steak frites and a burger". The steak: "slices of medium-rare hanger steak with a big coin of maitre d' butter, crsipy fries and a drizzle of red wine jus." Then, the burger: "Tate grinds the meat from grass-fed Hereford cattle sourced from Tate's father's Texas ranch. He tops the thick, grilled patty with house-cured bacon, Gruyere cheese, caramelized onions, pickles and a bun from Dallas' Village Baking Company." [Escape Hatch Dallas]
The Approachable Vibe News: The Dallas Diva also approves of the vibe, reporting, "Brooks [Anderson] once told me he was aiming above all for a cozy neighborhood spot with outstanding fare and an approachable vibe at Boulevardier. If the shabbily dapper gent next to me at the bar last night–who came in to read a book and enjoy a beer–was any indication, that aim was achieved." One Yelp reviewer seconds that relaxed-yet-elevated notion, saying "The atmosphere was extremely casual even though the food was quite upscale. This was very much in the same vein as their French counterparts - you'd feel comfortable taking your kid here yet you'd get a top flight meal." [Yelp]
The (Lack Of) Bad News: A SideDish commenter can find little fault with the restaurant: "The only neg I noticed, the bread served w/the foie was a little wimpy. But everything else we had was wonderful?" A Yelp critique says the chocolate tart "was very low on presentation but five star on taste. Every bite of chocolate, soft crust, and hazelnut was delectable." Minor quibbles indeed for a new restaurant that, thus far at least, seems to be exceeding the high expectations placed on it. [SideDish]