Brenner Skewers Ser, & More of the Week's Reviews

Leslie Brenner passed judgment on Ser: At the steakhouse that tragically replaced Nana atop the Hilton Anatole, the name of the game is "pretentiousness". Despite a sexy interior and attractive plates, starters fail to dazzle and the steaks, which aren't even "dry-aged, grass-fed or locally raised", simply don't impress, especially with the hefty price tags they bear. Housemade tots are the one standout on a list of mediocre sides; overall, there's nothing "even vaguely new and different" about Ser. [DMN]

Scott Reitz checked out Ellen's Southern Kitchen: Though the West End location makes it a bit obscure for anyone other than nearby office workers or tourists, Ellen's "diner fare with a Southern flare"—including an "unbelievably crunchy" chicken-fried steak, great braised greens and tasty smoked mac and cheese—makes this new spot worth a visit, despite service that can be a bit clunky. [Observer]

Teresa Gubbins reviewed Spoon: John Tesar's new temple to fresh flown-in seafood excels with soups (like a "breathtakingly smooth" oyster and black truffle stew), starters and desserts, though entrees can feel a bit flat; the overall effect is "restrained and supremely tasteful". [DFW.com]

[Photo credit: Plan B PR]