Uh oh: There's some serious critic-on-critic critiquing going on over at SideDish, where D Magazine restaurant critic Nancy Nichols has just written that Dallas Morning News critic Leslie Brenner "is more of a mean-spirited, uptight writer than she is an insightful dining critic."
Nichols' diatribe was triggered by Brenner's blog post from yesterday (titled "A Wasabi-Filled Dose of Revisionist History") in which she chastises soon-to-open Toko V for listing certain sushi rolls under a menu heading of "Classics." A Philly cucumber roll, a classic? "Don't tell anyone in Japan — or even in Los Angeles!" wrote Brenner.
Nichols takes issues with what she says are Brenner's constant comparisons of Dallas to her home city of L.A., and goes on to say that since Brenner's arrival in Dallas in 2009, she's had a tendency to write reviews "that focus on her perception of how a restaurant should perform instead of how the restaurant performed relative to its business model. Her criticism is not constructive; it's based on the-world-according-to-Leslie."
She also pegs Brenner as "an ineffectual dining critic" and urges her to "lighten up and let Los Angeles go." Stay tuned to see if Brenner chooses to make a rebuttal of some sort (maybe, just maybe she'll chime in via the SideDish comments section?).
· My Five Cents: Let's Talk About Leslie Brenner and Dallas [SideDish]
· A Wasabi-Filled Dose of Revisionist History [Eats Blog]
· More Leslie Brenner coverage [-EDFW-]
· More Nancy Nichols coverage [-EDFW-]
Nancy Nichols circa ten years ago. [Photo credit: D Magazine]