Scott Reitz checked out Village Kitchen: The menu at this Village Marquee replacement is heavy on the nostalgia, offering kid-friendly dishes like a sloppy house-ground burger with bacon mayo (unfortunately flanked by frozen fries) and "a perfect specimen" of a brownie sundae. Perfectly cooked flat-iron steak, brisket flatbread with a nicely charred crust and housemade potato chips with French onion dip are also good choices; opt for those over the lackluster lobster roll, "fish and chips with mushy cod" and overcooked deviled eggs. [Observer]
Leslie Brenner reviewed Mi Piaci: She's not impressed by the Italian restaurant that recently opened in Preston Center (the North Dallas location remains closed due to a "legal struggle with the landlord"), though it seems "already very popular" with the locals. "Hand-rolled" penne are clearly of the commercial dried version, "a sloppy plate of carpaccio [is] off-putting," the lobster in a fettucine dish is overcooked and osso buco is tough. She has little positive to say about the wine list, either, which offers "little of interest for those wanting to spend less than $60." The high points? Lobster bisque, "pleasant" arancini, and pizza with "a pleasantly chewy, crisp-edged crust." One star. [DMN]
Steve Steward went to Billy's Oak Acres: This newish barbecue joint out in West Fort Worth is putting out "some damn good 'cue." Pecan-smoked brisket offers "delectable bits of melt-in-your mouth fat," pulled pork is "succulent [and] juicy," and sausage is "pretty good." Standout sides include pinto beans, green beans and a creamy red potato salad; desserts include barbecue joint standard banana pudding and apple pie with cheddar baked right into the crust. The casual space looks like "your favorite uncle's backyard clubhouse," and service is attentive and friendly. [FW Weekly]
ELSEWHERE: D Mag reviewed Pera Turkish Kitchen; DFW.com went to Poor Daddy's Smokehouse in NRH and Tommy's Hamburger Grill in Fort Worth; SideDish checked out The Rustic; Barbecue Fiend scoped out Fat Cow BBQ in Lewisville.
· More Week in Reviews posts [-EDFW-]
[Photo: Margo Sivin/EDFW]