No Love for Le Bilboquet, & More of the Week's Reviews

Nancy Nichols visited Le Bilboquet: The recently opened NYC import at Travis Walk is packing in a "well-heeled" Park Cities crowd that's clearly there for the scene, because the "outdated menu," "poorly trained service staff" and inconsistent food aren't winning it any points with Nichols. Plates are reminiscent of the overly architectural early 90s style, the signature Cajun chicken dish is "ho-hum," lentil salad smelled "of a urinal cake," steak tartare is ruined with ketchup, and pricey foie gras tasted like refrigerator. [D Mag]

Leslie Brenner reviewed Nick & Sam's Grill at LOOK Cinemas: She first examines the in-theater dining option: "Tickets aren't cheap, but the theater is very comfortable," and the servers are adept at serving without being obtrusive, but "It's sort of an odd menu for such a setting," as dishes like hummus, queso and a construct-it-yourself burger are a little hard to eat in the dark. Dinner in the proper dining room was even less successful, with a rather pedestrian-seeming menu offering dishes like "standard-issue artichoke-spinach dip" and a poorly seared prime rib-eye flanked by "Spartan steamed broccoli florets." Steaks are definitely better than the "slapdash sushi," overcooked scallops and sad salads, though. One star. [DMN]

Scott Reitz checked out Truck Yard: Jason Boso's new Lower Greenville smash is a "gravel-paved food-truck utopia" that's also turned out to be "one of the busiest outdoor bars in East Dallas." The "hipster Sanford and Son" vibe appeals to everyone: the young drinkers, families with kids (and dogs), and the biker crowd. The small selection of food trucks "might disappoint some," but "you can always soothe yourself with a cheesesteak," and you should: it's hard to go wrong with paper-thin ribeye cooked to order and doused with Cheese Whiz. (Don't forget the napkins.) [Observer]

Teresa Gubbins went to Little Red Wasp: The more-casual little sister restaurant to nearby Grace offers a "well-executed lineup of American basics [and] attentive service," with a little something for everyone: spaghetti and meatballs, "a statuesque $10 burger," the best-selling Reuben sandwich with creamy slaw subbed in for sauerkraut, and excellent potato-crusted fish with a side of fresh spinach. Finish off the meal with cronut-esque, cinnamon-dusted doughnut holes. [DFW.com]

ELSEWHERE: Fort Worth Weekly checked out Coyote Drive-In and the Movie Tavern; Barbecue Fiend went to Hutchins BBQ in McKinney; Far North Dallas Advocate went dessert crazy; City of Ate tried Eddie Deen Crossroads Barbecue in Arlington.

· More Week in Reviews posts [-EDFW-]

[Photo: Margo Sivin/EDFW]