Leslie Brenner reviewed The Pyramid at the Fairmont Hotel: The food under new chef Brian Armstrong (who of course replaced Andre Natera) "is often pretty good," but the restaurant is dragged down by its "lackluster dining room" that's in need of a revamp. Foie gras terrine or "highly seasoned" beef tartare make for a solid start, and for entrees, it's the meat and potatoes dishes that really shine, like a $95 tomahawk steak for two carved tableside that was "the best savory thing [Brenner] tasted in two visits." Roasted quail with root veg is also a worthy main, but more ambitious dishes like sea lettuce flake-crusted scallops with truffle foam fall flat. Service could use some work, with frequent and awkward interruptions, but wine service by somm Hunter Hammett is a high note, as are the desserts by pastry chef Eric Burrell. Three stars. [DMN]
Scott Reitz checked out Mesero Miguel: The new Henderson Avenue spot from Mico Rodriguez is visually striking, with a waiting area that "could double as an entrance to a modern art gallery." Carefully execution elevates nachos to a new level, but the queso "resembles a T.G.I. Friday's appetizer;" stick to the chunky guac instead. Skip the odd fusion fried rice, flabby-skinned chicken and scallop ceviche; the restaurant "tries to offer diners too much" and falls short in some areas, but stick to the basics like the guac, duck confit tacos and "a decent margarita" and you'll do just fine here. [Observer]
ELSEWHERE: The Taco Trail ate brains at new El Come Taco in East Dallas; SideDish drank at The Woolworth and sampled Driftwood's new menu; Fort Worth Weekly went to the gimmicky Science Lab Bar & Grille near TCU; DFW.com's BBQ Safari found "a terrific everyday BBQ joint" in Avondale BBQ Station; Malcolm Mayhew tried the burgers at Fred's Texas Cafe's newer TCU location.
[Photo: Cristina Z./Foursquare]