Lucia Wows, Hotel St. Germain Disappoints

This week in hard-hitting food criticism, the Dallas Morning News and DFW.com reviewed Black-Eyed Pea and Cotton Patch Cafe, respectively. In other, less chain-laden news:

Scott Reitz gushed over Lucia: It's still challenging to score a reservation at the pint-sized Bishop Arts restaurant even two years after its opening, and for good reason. "A constantly evolving menu continues to surprise", but what is consistent is the "exceptional" housemade charcuterie, inventive handmade pastas, fish that's "consistently cooked perfectly", and "perfectly seared" meats. [Observer]

Leslie Brenner panned Hotel St. Germain: The ultra-formal fine-dining restaurant inside a historic Maple Avenue mansion has seen better days, garnering just a single star from Brenner. Service is awkward, the food at its very best "never rose above merely correct", and the wine list is "uninspired". The one bright spot in the $85 prix fixe menu was the "majestic" dessert. [DMN]

Todd Johnson reviewed Ocho Kitchen & Cocktails: The new Preston Center spot may attract cougars like moths to a flame, but the food comes up short: Cocktails are solid, but chips are "too thick and crunchy" and salsa is "tepid and watery", and entrees are often "flavorless". He notes that Ocho's issues "might be the result of a kitchen in need of leadership" after the recent departure of its chef Ross Demers; they've just hired Joel Harloff, so diners will have to wait and see. [D Mag]

THE BLOGS: DFW Food Truck Foodie was impressed by Yellow Belly; Taco Trail reviewed new downtown taqueria La Ventana.

[Photo credit: Lucia]