Leslie Brenner reviewed Cafe Des Artistes: She awarded Alberto Lombardi's newest restaurant in One Arts Plaza just a single star, proclaiming the menu "a bit of a crapshoot". Appetizers like foie gras and seared scallops are mostly "edible-but-forgettable" and overpriced. Some entrees fared better, like "a thin steak frites that reminded [her] of what you get in any ordinary bistro in Paris", but lobster risotto is one-note, and roast chicken tasted like reheated leftovers. The wine list "is a depressing document" and service rarely comes off as professional. [DMN]
Scott Reitz checked out Spoon: He's wowed by John Tesar's "elegant cooking" and "immaculate technique" in dishes like a black truffle oyster stew and diver scallops "seared to an impossible golden brown", proclaiming that "Dishes like these silence entire tables." Despite minor missteps like the bread program (which has no doubt been improved under new pastry chef David Collier), he feels it's "easy to envision Spoon settling in as one of Dallas' go-to fine dining restaurants". [Observer]
Nancy Nichols evaluated FT33: Though she feels service could be improved upon a and a few dishes varied in quality from night to night, overall Nichols was entranced by Matt McCallister's temple of modern gastronomy (and his Facebook status updates), particularly a beet salad she'd "willingly submit to every weekend"; dessert plates "must have been inspired by Salvador Dali". [D Mag]
THE BLOGS: The Taco Trail checked out Tacos House on Harry Hines; Entree Dallas visited Soulfish Grill; Almost Veggies found a tasty pretzel at Bowl & Barrel; Gavin Cleaver gushed over Angelo's in Fort Worth.
Cafe Des Artistes. [Photo credit: Stephen Masker/EDFW]