Summing up the week's restaurant reviews:
Scott Reitz reviewed the new Meso Maya downtown: While he found "a lot to like", particularly the "light, fluffy" housemade tortillas, Meso Maya just doesn't have the wow factor; chicharrones with queso are "one-dimensional" and cochinita pibil is "soft and mealy". The most impressive offerings are probably the tacos from La Ventana, the walk-up taco window that shares the kitchen. Overall, the restaurant "lacks the earthy, gritty, messy characteristics that make Mexican cooking so interesting". [Observer]
Leslie Brenner checked out The Greek — Pita, Meze, Wine: Its One Arts Plaza location makes it a worthy spot for a pre-show bite, but why the hell is a restaurant with "pita" in its name using "tough commercial" versions of the flatbread? That aside, flatbreads, moussaka, a dip trio, and seafood dishes like fried smelt and baby octopus are worthwhile, but skip the clunky pita sandwiches and "less compelling" salads. Two stars. [DMN]
Mark Vamos investigated Hopdoddy Burger Bar: He confirmed what many burger-lovers already know; the house-ground burgers on house-baked buns are "meaty, drippy and thoroughly satisfying". "Fresh, crispy" shoestring fries and "unctuously thick, richly flavored milkshakes" round out the offerings nicely, or opt for "one of the two dozen or so Texas brews on tap". [DMN]
Malcolm Mayhew surveyed the new Torchy's Tacos in Fort Worth: The newest location of the taco chain sports a full bar and "notoriously long lines", and the inventive taco fillings like chicken-fried steak and blackened salmon are mostly successful, even if they're served on "commercially bought" tortillas. Queso and elotes "with a wonderful fresh-off-the-cob, deeply roasted flavor" make worthy accompaniments for the tacos. [DFW.com]
THE BLOGS: The Taco Trail went to Fito's Tacos de Trompo; Almost Veggie visited Oak and Greenz; the BBQ Snob posted several new 'cue reviews.
[Photo credit: Meso Maya/Facebook]
