Leslie Brenner reviewed JoJo Eating House & Bar: A pedigreed chef and an attractive Plan B-designed dining room can't save this French disappointment, where Brenner experienced chicken liver mousse that'd gone off, dried-out octopus, puzzling codfish "blini", and "a sad approximation" of bouillabaisse. (A "practically useless iPad wine list" doesn't help matters.) A Caesar salad is "passable", and meaty entrees like lamb shank and a rib-eye are "somewhat more successful", but Brenner sums it up thusly: "It's hard to imagine how a French chef with Poupart's credentials could send out plates like these." One star. [DMN]
Scott Reitz copped a buzz at Ascension Coffee: "Broad windows and skylights send light flowing into a space filled with blond wood and high ceilings" at this Design District destination that takes coffee to new heights. Various brewing methods create "some of the most refined coffee Dallas has seen in some time." The food is less of a draw, with "overcooked proteins and under-toasted paninis", but specialty items like a super-slow extraction iced coffee that "results in a complex brew laced with hints of bourbon and fruit" makes Ascension more than worth a visit. [Observer]
Steve Watkins continues his "BBQ Safari" at Hickory Stick: Located in Everman near the hallowed Longoria, Hickory Stick "is what a barbecue joint should look like", and the food mostly delivers: Brisket is "bovine perfection" with a "nice smoke ring" and "tasty bark", and savory ribs are "as good as it gets anywhere". Sauce "has a nice, mild flavor" but is unnecessary with meat this good. Sides like sour cream-based potato salad and baked beans are solid, and for a sweet ending, banana pudding is "heavenly". Overall, this place is "is nearly perfect". [DFW.com]
THE BLOGS: Confection Confessions checked out the sweets at Caffe Bene in Carrollton; UNT's North Texas Daily investigated The Butcher's Son food truck; The Taco Trail found killer breakfast tacos at Taqueria La Chilanga near Trinity Groves.
· More Week in Reviews posts on Eater Dallas [-EDFW-]
JoJo in Uptown. [Photo credit: Stephen Masker/EDFW]