Lark on the Park is a "Happy Surprise," & More Reviews

Leslie Brenner reviewed Lark on the Park: The new restaurant at urban oasis Klyde Warren Park "manages to be whatever you want it to be," from a buttoned-up dinner destination for a "very Park Cities" demographic to a more casual hangout for the "jeans crowd." The menu offers a "California sensibility," with dishes like a festive fluke crudo and respectable seared scallops; chefs Melody Bishop and Dennis Kelley "even manage to make grilled chicken feel new again." Cocktails are "on the sweet side" and service could stand to improve, but overall, Lark is a "happy surprise." [DMN]

She also critiqued TJ's Seafood Market & Grill: Brenner is a bit bowled over by the prices at the newer Oak Lawn outpost of TJ's, noting that $30 for a pair of crab cakes "$30 price tag strikes [her] as a small fortune at a place where you order at the counter." A $15 shellfish steam pot appetizer with a creamy sauce can do duty as an entree, though, and North Atlantic oysters are "thrilling"; but an uni special simply isn't up to par, and simply prepared fish selections are "not terribly interesting." Two stars. [DMN]

Scott Reitz scoped out Belly & Trumpet: Although he's less than impressed by what he deems improperly cooked pork belly and "clunky desserts," Reitz concedes that the small plates spot is turning out what is "clearly the very best cooking to be had in Uptown", with stand-out dishes like compressed mango with long beans and a perfectly braised lamb shoulder adding up to a restaurant that "cooks with creativity and thoughtful execution more often than not," and one that "finally brings something interesting" to the neighborhood. [Observer]

Malcolm Mayhew checked out the new Twisted Root in Bedford: This new outpost "follows the same formula as the others," with solid burgers that run the gamut from healthier turkey to exotic wild game to "calorie bombs" like the Western, which tops a "a rich, vibrant, beefy" patty with pepper jack, fried onions, bacon and jalapenos. Sides including sweet potato chips and fried pickles make worthy accompaniments, and a huge patio is the place to be as long as the weather's nice. [DFW.com]

[Photo credit: Eight-O Management/Lark]