Leslie Brenner reviewed Carbone's Fine Food and Wine: After awarding chef Julian Barsotti's casual Italian market-slash-restaurant just two stars shortly after it opened last year, she decided to revisit a revamped Carbone's and was pretty delighted at the results. Servers are "attentive and professional," and "knowledgeable and excited" about the constantly evolving menu, highlights of which include a hearts of escarole salad with pecorino and walnuts and housemade pastas that are "finely wrought yet firm and resilient, just right." Entrees like a "perfectly seasoned" veal Milanese and "beautifully grilled" filet of snapper don't disappoint, either, and a "silken vanilla panna cotta" with spring fruit compote is the high point of the dessert menu. Four stars. [DMN]
Scott Reitz checked out Lark on the Park: Shannon Wynne's new restaurant at Klyde Warren Park gets another glowing review from the critic, who's impressed by chef duo Dennis Kelley and Melody Bishop's creativity with dishes like "a compelling coq au vin" and pea-and-potato samosas. The chefs display a deft touch with produce, too; "roasted baby carrots as thin as carpenter's pencils, asparagus and baby artichokes" aren't gussied up with a lot of cream or butter, letting the products shine. Reitz also praises the dining room's acoustics, noting that "comparably sized dining rooms would be at a roar" with crowds like the ones that often pack Lark. Overall, "Kelley and Bishop bring a refreshing style of cooking from the West Coast that maintains a lightness that can be hard to find in Dallas." [Observer]
THE BLOGS: The Taco Trail sampled the wares at St. Taco in McKinney; Dallas Vegan explored Preston Center's animal-friendly offerings; Colette's Dallas Mexican Food Reviews checked out Petra in McKinney.
[Photo credit: Josh H./Yelp]