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Tim Love's New Steakhouse Gets 2 Stars, & More Reviews

Leslie Brenner reviewed Queenie's Steakhouse: The newest Denton venture from chef Tim Love certainly stands out from the pack in the college town, but the food is uneven: Forgettable starters like a lobster salad and halibut crudo lack finesse, but "the more rustic starters tend to be more successful," like fried quail legs and lamb ribs. The much-publicized chicken-fried lobster isn't worth the $50 it commands; better to opt for a "well-seasoned and nicely charred" steak, although they don't always come out cooked as requested. "Side orders are hit and miss;" skip the frites and roasted mushrooms and instead opt for silky mashed potatoes or grilled asparagus. Unfortunately, the wine list is "a sorry document" — quite the faux pas at a steakhouse. [DMN]

Scott Reitz gushed over Tom's Burgers and Grill: The shiny red Arlington restaurant that occupies a former Denny's is everything a diner should be, from the luscious chicken-fried steak with potato chip breading to the tempura-battered onion rings, which are "perfect little halos for diner angels in heaven." Burgers are cooked to order and better than expected, considering they start with pre-formed patties, and green beans are fresh rather than the usual frozen or canned specimens. Breakfast staples like bacon and eggs are capably cooked and best of all, the beer is free (although there's a limit of 2 per person). [Observer]

Anna Caplan went to Billy Bob's: The famous (or infamous, depending on where you stand) Fort Worth honky-tonk isn't just for dancing, drinking beer and bull-riding anymore, apparently; it boasts a new chef that hails from the heralded French restaurant Saint-Emilion, and he's serving up a revamped menu that satisfies with dishes like a "nicely spiced" yellow squash soup and quail sliders with salsa verde aioli. There's also a respectable chicken-fried steak with "pillowy mashed potatoes," and barbecue from nearby Cooper's. [DFW.com]

ELSEWHERE: D Mag's Kid Kritic tried Hopdoddy's milkshakes; Yeah That's Kosher went to Aderet in North Dallas; Regular Joe hit up Banana Leaf Thai.

· More Week in Reviews posts [-EDFW-]

[Photo credit: Carli Baylor/EDFW]

Hopdoddy Burger Bar

1805 21st Avenue South, , TN 37212 (615) 823-2337 Visit Website

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