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Scott Reitz gave his take on Five Sixty: The four-year-old restaurant from Wolfgang Puck atop Reunion Tower misses the mark in a lot of areas; "the wine and food knowledge of the staff is dispassionate," which at these prices is unacceptable. There are some good dishes to be had, like flavorful lobster shrimp rolls and wok-fried striped bass, but much of the cooking is uneven, and at times it can feel like "a high-altitude P.F. Chang's." Better to stick with the excellent cocktails, which are worthy of the priceless city views. [Observer]
Nancy Nichols reviewed Belly & Trumpet: Chef Brian Zenner's "edgy yet elegant small plates" function as a sort of "inexpensive tasting menu," with standouts including Portuguese green soup ("stunning and soothing"), "dazzling" antelope tartare, and foie-stuffed Cornish game hen. A carefully curated wine list hits all the high notes, and while the desserts doesn't measure up to the savory plates, an apple and goat cheese concoction is "a revelation." [D Mag]
Andrew Marton ate at Ryan's Fine Grocer and Delicatessen: The recently introduced dinner menu is "delivered in a refreshingly unaffected manner where flavor, not flamboyance, rules." An apple, pecan and Stilton salad is big enough to share and a bargain at $7, and a charcuterie plate and escargots on puff pastry are equally worthy starters; entrees including skate wing and Southwest quail are prepared with a deft hand, but are nearly upstaged by killer sides like chayote gratin and Parmesan couscous. [DFW.com]
ELSEWHERE: Delicious Mischief went to Woodshed Smokehouse; Almost Veggie checked out Waters; I Live in Dallas spotlighted classic Dallas restaurants that haven't lost their touch.
[Photo credit: Five Sixty]