Kim Pierce filled in for Leslie Brenner at Battuto: There's plenty to like at the North Dallas Italian restaurant from former radio personalities Gene and Julie Gates: "divine chicken pâté" with grilled bread and fig marmalade or a tomato and burrata salad make excellent starters, and despite being totally out of season, braised short ribs "evoked shivers of satisfaction." Chewy-crusted pizzas topped with unique combos like speck, quail eggs and truffle cheese satisfy, as do standout renditions of tiramisu and panna cotta. Battuto is obviously still finding its footing, though — calamari and Caesar salad are "lackluster," and a California-heavy wine list leaves much to be desired; two stars. [DMN]
Scott Reitz finally reviewed FT33: He mostly echoes the sentiments of the rest of the city's critics, praising chef Matt McCallister's ability to cook with both creativity and restraint, putting out plates that offer "something new and unexpected without barrelling through the boundaries of what most would recognize as dinner." The charcuterie board is with unusual components like pickled lamb's tongue is "as fine as any served in Dallas," and dishes like cobia crudo and sous-vide flap steak with cashew puree "burst with color and imagery." As the headline reads, "FT33 is one of Dallas' best, so why aren't there more like it?" [Observer]
Teresa Gubbins checked out Howard Wang's China Grill: Just like its older siblings in North Dallas and Uptown, the new Southlake location offers "good, fresh Chinese-American food with attentive service" in a striking dining room outfitted with swanky chandeliers and lion's head sculptures. The expansive menu offers a little something for everyone, and is well-excuted across the board; standouts include lettuce wraps, jade vegetable dumplings, and stir-fries with still-al dente vegetables. [DFW.com]
ELSEWHERE: Confection Confessions raved about macarons from a local baker; the BBQ Safari went to Jambo's in Rendon; FW Weekly scoped out the food at the Bearded Lady; Wood.Smoke.Meat was unimpressed by SausageFest; Regular Joe's Guide checked out Taqueria Burritos Locos in Grapevine; Almost Veggies went to TJ's Seafood Market & Grill; Barbecue Fiend found barbecue at the zoo.
[Photo credit: Battuto/Facebook]