Leslie Brenner reviewed Y.O. Ranch Steakhouse: She was "happily caught off-guard" to find good food in the tourist trap-y West End, declaring Y.O. "one of Dallas' better steak- and chophouses." Meats are "beautifully seared, well-seasoned, perfectly cooked, wonderfully juicy and otherwise excellent," particularly a buffalo filet mignon and an espresso-crusted elk tenderloin. The best steak option is the bone-in ribeye, but skip the rack of lamb with an overly sweet glaze. "Starters are hit-and-miss," with a wedge salad and bacon-wrapped venison-stuffed jalapenos as two of the better options. A dining room with "old-timey charm that barely stops short of kitschy" adds to the charm, as does the "attentive, knowledgeable and thoughtful" service, though the wine list and dessert menu fall short. Three stars. [DMN]
Scott Reitz went to Mercat Bistro: The recently opened Saint Ann offshoot "attempts to be everything for everyone," offering breakfast, lunch and dinner, but some dishes are more successful than others. Skip the lackluster croque madame and overcooked omelets in favor of the solid hanger steak with frites (be sure to specify how you want it cooked, as Reitz wasn't asked) or short ribs over celeriac puree. They'd be wise to find a better bread purveyor, too, as the baguettes are "leathery and tough," with a spongy interior, marring otherwise-tasty starters like housemade ricotta or anchovy bruschetta. [Observer]
Todd Johnson checked out Lark on the Park: "The restaurant's floor-to-ceiling windows provide a swell view into Dallas' new urban oasis," and the plates are just as impressive, with a menu that blends "Indian, Asian, Italian, and good old Texan, with only minor missteps." An arugula salad with stone fruit wisely incorporates hazelnuts and triple-creme cheese, and curry pillows with cilantro chutney for dipping are "buttery and flaky" when properly executed. Entrees are "hearty yet refined," including perfectly seared scallops, moo krob with rich pork belly, and housemade pappardelle, plus a "luscious and fatty rib-eye." Desserts from Laurel Wimberg (formerly of Craft) are creative and memorable, particularly a spring version of panna cotta that incorporated crispy prosciutto and melon. [D Mag]
ELSEWHERE: inFrisco recommended restaurants to avoid; Fort Worth Weekly reviewed The Beacon Cafe and tried the food at The Bearded Lady; The Taco Trail road-tripped to El Taquito in Austin; Almost Veggies went to Woodshed Smokehouse; SideDish readers shared Restaurant Week experiences.
· More Week in Reviews posts [-EDFW-]
[Photo credit: Y.O. Ranch Steakhouse]