Brenner reviewed Le Bilboquet: This classically French Manhattan export opened in the former L'Ancestral space at Travis Walk in May and has quickly attracted a see-and-be-seen Park Cities crowd. The food is pricey and far from groundbreaking, with starters like tuna tartare that's generously portioned but a bit yawn-inducing, and a gazpacho "that tasted like Worcestershire-sauce-spiked V8 juice." Entrees like seared scallops and rack of lamb are generally well-executed, "but nothing at all striking," and a somewhat out-of-place signature dish of Cajun chicken is good, "but not in any way memorable." Two stars. [DMN]
Brenner also reviewed Pozo Mercado: The three-month old Uptown spot in the old St. John's Wood space is fun, with perhaps the best mezcal selection in town, but it "feels more like a bar with food than a real restaurant." Dishes like chile relleno with "a canned-tasting tomatoish sauce" and tacos served on less-than-fresh tortillas fail to impress, and even the chips and salsa leave room for improvement. Better are the simple dishes like "a juicy double-cut pork chop" or "terrific" red-wine braised short ribs. Two stars. [DMN]
Scott Reitz was underwhelmed by HG Sply Co.: Despite finding a packed house on most of his visits, Reitz finds most of the menu items "poorly conceived," like a bacon-less BLT and a veggie burger "bound with so much egg it eats like a small frittata;" entrees like "bland" steak and roast chicken with "rubbery skin" come up way short. The restaurant does possess "what is likely Dallas' best rooftop deck," though, so stick with the solid cocktails and some nachos, which are "one of the best items on the menu," if perhaps a bit greasy. [Observer]
Malcolm Mayhew went to Salsa Limon: The first restaurant venture from two siblings first known for their food trucks, this West 7th spot "features a menu that is gringo-friendly but also offers more authentic Mexican food fare." Street tacos are "small and cheap but packed with ingredients," and the shrimp, red snapper, and tender lengua versions are especially tasty, even if the tortillas aren't made in-house (yet). Four salsas "ranging from mild to scorching" are standouts, though be forewarned: "the orange habanero and garlic sauce is for those with tongues of steel." [DFW.com]
ELSEWHERE: Fort Worth Weekly went to Pacific Table; The Taco Trail sought out tacos (duh) at La Guadalupana Meat Market; SideDish sampled the goods at Boxwood Tap & Grill.