Leslie Brenner revisited The Mansion on Turtle Creek: While Brenner praises Chef Bruno Davaillion's "flashes of greatness" and talent for turning out talented young chefs (Belly & Trumpet's Brian Zenner and former Oak chef Jason Maddy both passed through his kitchen), more recent visits were somewhat uneven. Dishes like chilled lobster with asparagus panna cotta and Berkshire pork with morels are stunning, but "the cocktail list has not evolved much in the last few years," and the hotel's lobby and bar could use some sprucing up; a five-course tasting menu is mostly "excellent" but lacks inspiration, with most of the dishes coming from the regular menu. Similarly, desserts are "usually lovely but fell short of stunning." Overall the Mansion is still "an excellent restaurant," but Brenner hopes Davaillion will "find, once again, the creative energy and inspiration that in the past has made his cooking so exciting." [DMN]
Scott Reitz went to The Corner Bar and Boxwood Tap & Grill: This week's review focused on two places that are serving stepped-up bar food. Boxwood, which recently opened in the old TABC space, "doesn't feel like a restaurant" and many of the dishes are surprisingly elevated, like beet salad with goat cheese marbles and an excellent prosciutto and melon salad. If you're in the mood for a burger, though, bypass the beef and go straight for the turkey version. The more casual Corner Bar offers some of the best corn dogs around, served with a unique white barbecue sauce for dipping; stick to those or the potato croquettes over the dry ribs or overly salty Italian beef sandwich. [Observer]
Teresa Gubbins checked out The Bearded Lady: This fresh addition to Fort Worth's West Magnolia area offers a "relaxed and collegiate" atmosphere, friendly service, and "a serious lineup of craft brews" from both locals and big names like Deschutes. The menu has "somewhat of a beer theme," and the cooks have a deft hand with the fryer; beer-battered fried cactus strips and mini corn dogs are two of the best options. But the piece de resistance is definitely the stuffed burger, adorned with grilled onions, avocado, feta and cheddar — "so massive and sloppy that it almost required a fork and knife." [DFW.com]
ELSEWHERE: FW Weekly went to Pacific Table and Enchiladas Ole; SideDish checked out the Truck Yard; The Taco Trail trekked to La Estrella in Denton; Confection Confessions sampled sweets from Bisous Bisous; the Barbecue Fiend tried the ribs at Tillman's Roadhouse.
· More Week in Reviews posts [-EDFW-]
[Photo credit: The Mansion on Turtle Creek]