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Esquire food writer/Meatopia founder Josh Ozersky sings the praises of chef Tim Byres in a recent interview with GQ: "He has a restaurant in Dallas, Texas called Smoke. That restaurant has become a beacon of what is called the new firewood cookery. Tim ? has a deep almost religious reverence for the interaction of fire and meat. There's something elemental, fundamental, pantheistic and powerful in a way that no other cooking technique could ever be." [GQ]