Leslie Brenner reviewed Toko V: While the critic was a huge fan of chef Andre Natera's cooking at his former place of work The Pyramid (particularly his Asian-influenced dishes), she's considerably less impressed by the food at this Highland Park Village pan-Asian spot, which she says "never thrilled and rarely surprised." Best bets include snapper tataki with a "vibrant yuzu-red miso sauce," green curry ramen noodles, and saucy pork steamed buns, which she proclaims "one of the better renditions in Dallas." "Elaborate sushi rolls are hit-and-miss," though, and "nigiri sushi is of variable quality," while other dishes like a chicken and Brussels sprouts salad simply lack zing and others like the gochujang-glazed ribs suffer from too-sweet sauces. She also takes issue with the restaurant's choice to serve bluefin tuna and escolar, which they say is in response to customer demand. [DMN]
Nancy Nichols went to Taverna Rossa: Pizza is the best option at this newest venture from the owner of McKinney's Cadillac Pizza Pub, and "if you aren't a pizza snob and are a fan of thin crusts, you will be more than satisfied" with topping combos like barbecue sauce, smoked brisket and bacon. The rest of the menu was designed by The Grape's Brian Luscher, and best bets include a dip trio with pita bread, hummus, pimiento cheese and smoked almond goat cheese. Salads are all reliable, including a wedge with fantastic green garlic dressing, and the Rossa BLT "is a terrific sandwich and enough for two." The spicy Bloody Rossa is Nichols' favorite cocktail of the year, but "the wine list could use some sass." [D]
Teresa Gubbins checked out CBD Provisions: Breakfast at the Joule's new restaurant is serviceable enough for hotel guests, but "it becomes a destination at lunch and dinner, when it unrolls a menu that's familiar yet ambitious," offering "lots and lots of pork" including Berkshire pig head carnitas and braised tripe for the adventurous. The less daring will be satisfied with a Cuban sandwich that offers "a world of flavors," "a crisply fried redfish sandwich," or excellent roast chicken. "Sides are essential," including French fries and mac and cheese, and desserts from pastry chef Ruben Torano "offer unexpected twists," like a tres leches-style corn cake. "Designer cocktails and a state-of-the-art beer and wine selection," efficient service and a "stunning atmosphere" make CBD a worthy destination. [DFW.com]
ELSEWHERE: The Taco Trail checked out the tacos at Tina's Cocina in Fort Worth; FW Weekly tried The Pour House; The Barbecue Fiend bravely tried the Dickey's in Uptown; DFW.com visited Koi Sushi Bar & Grill in Grand Prairie.
[Photo: Garrett Hall/EDFW]