Leslie Brenner reviewed Mesero Miguel: The critic's iPhone photography skills are showcased in this review, as the restaurant oddly refused to allow a photographer in for food shots. Ceviches, especially a shrimp version, are the "zingiest" dishes on the menu; queso and guacamole are served thoughtfully but the latter tastes like it could be made with Velveeta. Main courses can be satisfying but "didn't excite," including a taco plate with commercial corn tortillas and "soulless" slaw. Best mains include a simple red snapper with spinach and potato puree and the chicken a la brasa, an attractively plated, pan-roasted half chicken. For dessert, a s'mores ice cream sandwich was impossible to cut on one visit but "tender enough to cut with a fork" the next. Two stars. [DMN]
Scott Reitz hit up BonChon: The international franchise's first Texas location specializes in fried chicken very different from the Southern style we're used to, but a double-frying process makes for "mouth-shatteringly crisp," pleasing results. Although the restaurant got off to a rocky start, the "storm has calmed considerably since those first blustery days" and now is a good time to visit. Skip the craft brews and pair your spicy or "sweet and sticky" soy-garlic wings with a "personality-free, cheap beer" that better complements them; wings arrive "consistently hot, spicy and crunchy every time." [Observer]
Nancy Nichols went to Savor: "The quality of the food and service is shamefully inconsistent" and the service can be wonky, but don't let that deter you from a visit to Klyde Warren Park's "325-seat bobby dazzler." Deviled eggs are "overcooked and rubbery" and a chopped salad bore "browning lettuce" on one visit; better options are the "nicely grilled flatiron steak with a ... scrumptious creamed spinach fritter" and "delicious" short ribs with orecchiette mac. Lunch is managed "more efficiently" and includes solid options such as a short rib grilled cheese and an "ooey gooey" burger with tomato jam and bacon. Despite its flaws, the "stunning" dining room and setting makes for "a classy restaurant" worth a visit. [SideDish]
Daniel Vaughn visited Gas Monkey Bar & Grill: He wasn't expecting much from the barbecue at this "entertainment complex" from the guy behind reality show Fast N Loud, and ended up with food better than expected. Brisket is well-smoked and moist but suffers a bit from being chilled overnight and reheated, and "mushy" ribs moreso. "Inventive sides" include fried batterless green beans, red chile grits and "well seasoned" fries, but "for God's sake get the truffle oil out of the otherwise good mac & cheese." The beef rib with two sides for $16.99 is a bargain and "good enough ... to warrant a return trip." [TMBBQ]
ELSEWHERE: SideDish went to WORK in Deep Ellum; City of Ate sought out Malaysian food at Kampong in Richardson; Fort Worth Weekly visited Clay Pigeon; DFW.com tried fast-casual Costa Vida in Fort Worth; Almost Veggie found a mostly-empty dining room at Dallas Fish Market.