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Critic Leslie Brenner Finds a Tex-Mex Restaurant to Love

Brenner on Rafa's Cafe Mexicano; the verdict on Monica Greene's Pegaso Mexican Diner.

Rafa's, home to Tex-Mex Leslie Brenner actually likes.
Rafa's, home to Tex-Mex Leslie Brenner actually likes.
Rafa's Cafe Mexicano/Facebook

Leslie Brenner reviewed Rafa’s Cafe Mexicano: It seems the queso-hating critic "ha[s] a crush on a Tex-Mex restaurant." The dining room is "comfortable and charming ... with considerable charm." An "irresistable" puffy taco taco is loaded with "well-seasoned, nicely browned ground beef." "The margaritas, all mixed to order except the frozen one, are exemplary." Even "plain-Jane guacamole" and "run-of-the-mill fajitas" are likable, but ceviche and chicken enchiladas are standouts. On the fancier side, "a pair of grilled quail were appealingly charred and garlicky." Desserts are skippable. Three stars. [DMN]

Anna Caplan reviewed Pegaso Mexican Diner: With the help of partner Jay Coates, Monica Greene has made a comeback with this order-at-the-counter spot in Fort Worth's Bluebonnet Circle. Unfortunately, the layout is "awkward and ill-conceived" and "the wait can be lengthy." Fans of Greene's departed BEE Enchiladeria will recognize build-your-own enchiladas option that offers "a crazy number of possible combinations," including five fillings and seven sauces. Some menu items "were desperate for the salt-and-pepper shakers, and elote "needed more chipotle crema and mayonnaise." The "tender and smoky" brisket is a good bet, as is "the skinny premium margarita on the rocks." Overall, "Pegaso is looking to the future, but for now, it needs to do a little homework." []

ELSEWHERE: Teresa Gubbins discovered Mexican-Indian fusion at Currytos in Grapevine; Scott Reitz tried the Deep-Fried Gulf Shrimp Boil at the State Fair; SideDish sampled apple pies and drank at Parliament; Daniel Vaughn ate barbecue at The Wooden Spoke in Oklahoma, TX.