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Fort Worth's Grace 'Has Grown Up Into Quite a Fine Restaurant'

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Leslie Brenner gives Grace three stars, and Scott Reitz weighs in on Cold Beer Company.

Grace in downtown Fort Worth.
Grace in downtown Fort Worth.

Leslie Brenner reviewed Grace: Nearly six years into its downtown Fort Worth residency, Grace "has grown up into quite a fine restaurant." Chef Blaine Staniford's cooking "has matured without losing its spunky personality," resulting in winning starters like "gorgeously cooked Hawaiian prawns in a charred oregano aioli," bison tartare, and "terrific house-made merguez." Entree standouts include rack of lamb over cauliflower puree and scallops with caviar buter sauce; slightly less successful was overly salty Japanese fried chicken and smoked beef cheek that "looked and tasted like the messed-up insides of a deli sandwich." Staniford's risk-taking is admirable, though, and the "38-page [wine] list is a thrilling read that offers something for everyone." Three stars. [DMN]

Scott Reitz checked out Cold Beer Company: This Deep Ellum bar initally had grand plans for "a small menu based on local ingredients wherever possible," but it turns out that whole locally sourced thing isn't as easy as it sounds. "It really is a great place to drink," though, and simple items like housemade pickles "with real personality" and "a cozy and soothing" pimento cheese sandwich make worthy accompaniments for the cold beer. Somewhat less successful are the hot dogs and meatballs that are "doused in a noticeably sweet tomato sauce," both of which taste better after several beers. [Observer]

ELSEWHERE: SideDish taste-tested baguettes; City of Ate sampled the $22 burger at Local and raved about the tacos at Luna Cocina; The Taco Trail found Huastecan cuisine at Oak Cliff's Morales Restaurant; tried East Hampton Sandwich Co., as did the Fort Worth Weekly; TMBBQ road tripped to Come & Take It BBQ in Fort Davis.