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Leslie Brenner Reviews Souk: 'Very Likable' But Uneven

Leslie Brenner reviewed Souk: This "smart and sexy" dining room at Trinity Groves from Baboush owner Yaser Khalaf featuring Moroccan food by former PS chef Najat Kaanache is "very likable," though Brenner proclaims the cooking "disappointingly uneven." Highlights include bisteeya, "nicely flaky turnovers deliciously filled with chicken confit with caramelized onions, rosewater and golden raisins," and the not-exactly-Moroccan but perfectly shareable savory crawfish "cronuts." Most of the tagines suffer from too much sweetness, "and the couscous, which should be light and fluffy, was anything but," but a chermoula-rubbed sea bass version is one she'd order again, along with tender, smoky beef kebabs. "Skip dessert and end dinner at Souk with Moroccan mint tea," says Brenner. [DMN]

Scott Reitz went to True Food Kitchen: This new Preston Center arrival features a menu based on Dr. Andrew Weil's anti-inflammatory diet, and diners are taking the bait in droves — this place is packed, "with a 30-minute wait" for Monday lunch. The best starters include seafood options like "seared tuna served with soft avocado and ponzu"; vegetable crudite with black olive dip are good for sharing, if a bit dull. Entrees of turkey lasagna or spaghetti squash casserole are popular, satisfying and affordable; a more elegant choice is "perfectly cooked" miso-glazed black cod. Avoid the "gummy" edamame dumplings and overly sweet red chile shrimp. Overall, "It's lower-guilt dining ... that doesn't eat like hippy-dippy health food." [Observer]

Daniel Vaughn tried Pickles BBQ & Icehouse in Watauga: Pickles infused with flavors like watermelon and grape are certainly interesting, but "who really needs the flavor equivalent of five Jolly Ranchers in one sitting?" Ribs were unfortunately "desiccated to the point of crumbling and flaking away from the bone," and brisket "was tender and moist enough, but it tasted more of paprika and beef broth than the advertised hickory smoke." Fried tobacco onions are tasty, "but man cannot live on onion strings alone." Overall, "Pickles needs to strive harder." [TMBBQ]

Malcolm Mayhew visited The Original Lorena's Mexican Kitchen: This northwest Fort Worth spot "is a throwback to the classic Tex-Mex by which many Fort Worthians swear." Think queso flameado prepared tableside ("hot, boozy, spicy and quite good"), well-executed puffy tacos ("the beef version was exceptional), rich refried beans, and classic cheese enchiladas "gushing with melted cheddar, covered in a blanket of warm, hearty chili con carne." The location "in a remote, scenic area" adds to the appeal. []

Tim Rogers checked out Gas Monkey Bar & Grill; Teresa Gubbins reviewed Fort Worth's Pizza Snob; Fort Worth Weekly loved Clay Pigeon; The Barbecue Fiend went to Bubba's Bar-B-Q and Steakhouse in Ennis.

[Photo: Souk/Facebook]


3011 Gulden Lane Suite 114, Dallas, TX 75212