Leslie Brenner reviewed Gemma: Brenner found a lot to like at Henderson Avenue's newest hot spot: "Pretty and refreshing" craft cocktails, "one of the most compelling [wine lists] in town," "a talented pastry chef" turning out desserts like a chocolate pine nut tart and "a moist and almondy Basque cake," a lively bar and food that's "generally appealing and well-turned-out." The best dishes include a "well-seasoned beef tartare" with housemade crackers, "sweet mussels in a terrific coconut-lemon-grass broth," and "knockout" veal cheeks served over black pepper spaetzle. The critic found some dishes less successful, though, including a kampachi crudo in need of acid and "dense and underseasoned" turkey meatballs. Three stars. [DMN]
Scott Reitz went to Miss Chi: The critic says the best bet at this Preston Center Vietnamese spot from the Tanoshii Ramen owners is the combination beef pho, although the broth is "sometimes comforting, other times sinisterly salty." Said bowl includes rare sliced beef, meatballs, tender brisket and pieces of tendon that offer "a silky, gelatinous texture." Other solid dishes include crab and cream cheese wontons(though made with imitation crabmeat, they're "less greasy and more flavorful than the other versions you're used to"), "meatier than usual" eggrolls and baby clams garnished with crispy shrimp crackers. [Observer]
Teresa Gubbins went to Cane Rosso Fort Worth: The newest addition to Jay Jerrier's pizza empire "has received the same frenzied reception as its two sibling locations," and the food is just as good: Pies include "top-of-the-line ingredients," housemade mozzarella, and a "phenomenal" crust with "a salty, sourdough tang" that's "airy and crunchy around the edge." The FW-exclusive Gipsy Danger pie is topped with mushrooms, jalapenos and sopressata marmalade. Other solid options include the massive Cuban sandwich on house-baked bread, can't-miss fried artichokes and decadent burrata with crostini and bitter greens. [DFW.com]
Nancy Nichols reviewed CBD Provisions: "Every bite resonates with layers of flavor" at Consilient's "ambitious, modern Texas brasserie located in the expanded Joule." It's "a warm, inviting space" and "the menus are short and user-friendly." Best bets include pimiento cheese toasts on house-baked sourdough, "a wicked good roasted carrot hummus," and "a remarkable rendition" of classic Texas chili. Impressive large format plates like the whole Berkshire pig's head or "rich and luscious" Wagyu rib steak will satisfy a crowd. [D Mag]
ELSEWHERE: Fort Worth Weekly went to Pizza Snob; SideDish tried the new Texas Burrito Company food truck; DFW.com went to Sistah's Mississippi Style BBQ in Arlington; City of Ate got a sugar high at Society Bakery; Confection Confessions tried Smallcakes in Southlake; The Barbecue Fiend sampled the smoked meat pizzas from the Tutta's Pizza truck.
[Photo: Garrett Hall/EDFW]