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Two Stars for 3 Stacks, & More of the Week's Reviews

Leslie Brenner reviewed 3 Stacks Smoke & Tap House: The critic trekked out to Frisco to try the newly redesigned barbecue joint from "Rib Whisperer" Trace Arnold. Mesquite-smoked ribs in a "lightly sweet" glaze have nice texture but not quite as good as the brisket, which can be ordered moist or lean. Burnt ends are "pretty wonderful," with a "nicely charred bark." Brenner finds Three Stacks to suffer from inconsistency, though; on one visit, sides including "crunchy, fresh coleslaw" and "smoky, spicy, porky barbecue beans" were just right, and on the next brisket was "mushy and bland," "fried pickles were greasy," and "green beans were soggy." Brisket and pulled pork sandwiches are "winners," and benefit from the addition of "wonderfully zingy" barbecue sauce. Overall, "3 Stacks serves some of the best barbecue around — if you're lucky." Two stars. [DMN]

Scott Reitz went to The Boiling Crab: Expect mighty long waits at this very popular Vietnamese-owned seafood joint. A little tailgating action can help ease the hunger pangs while you wait for a table; then, the critic recommends you skip the fried seafood options ("they're average at best") and proceed to the seafood boils. Crawfish is best when in season, but "shrimp take a close second." Best seasoning options are Cajun or "the whole sha-bang," a mixture of Cajun, lemon pepper and garlic butter. Sides of corn and sausage are a must-order. [Observer]

Anna Caplan reviewed Spice in Fort Worth: This Magnolia Avenue Thai spot is the fourth venture from the Thanpaisarnsamut family offering "a contemporary vibe" and a wide-ranging menu that includes everything from edamame and beef in oyster sauce to "a handful of more refined, au courant Thai dishes." Veggie spring rolls and tofu in garlic sauce disappoint, but yum neua is "a winning dish that paired grilled beef strips with tomatoes, onions and cilantro" (be warned: it's potently spicy); other good choices include king prawn chu chee and cashew nuts with beef. Service is "occasionally cumbersome and slow," but overall it's a good fit for the neighborhood. []

ELSEWHERE: Fort Worth Weekly reviewed AF&B and the new Cane Rosso; tried Fort Worth's Casablanca Greek; Daniel Vaughn reviewed Hwy 29 BBQ in Bertram; City of Ate tried the seafood boil at Tasty Tails in Plano.

[Photo: 3 Stacks]

3 Stacks Smoke & Tap House

4226 Preston Road, Frisco, TX 75034