Leslie Brenner reviewed AF+B: Consilient is lucky to have snagged Jeff Harris, "one of the city's most talented and accomplished chefs," for its newest venture in Fort Worth's West 7th district. Here, Harris is serving up a menu that's "absolutely and emphatically modern Texan" in a "handsomely rustic dining room." Highlights include the "beguilingly smoky" mezcal margarita, chorizo Scotch eggs, "delicious little deviled gulf blue crabs," "a gorgeously cooked, chile-rubbed bone-in double pork chop," and what "may well be the best mac-and-cheese this side of the Mississippi." Desserts are "less exciting than the savory offerings" but still "likable," particularly a "dreamy chocolate custard." Four stars. [DMN]
Scott Reitz checked out Origin Kitchen & Bar: The former coffee shop and healthy takeout spot has "grown into a full-service restaurant complete with a young, attractive wait staff, a bustling kitchen and a competent cocktail program." Decadent dishes like "duckaroni," mac and cheese loaded up with "meaty shards of duck and pungent blue cheese," and braised short ribs with fried green beans share menu space with lighter fare like can't-miss Brussels sprouts with pecorino and lemon and grape leaf-wrapped salmon with kale. A few dishes, like skate that's past its prime and dry duck pâté, miss the mark, but overall "there's plenty to like here." [Observer]
Preston Jones went to Grub Burger Bar: This "sleek, fast-casual joint" from College Station recently opened on Greenville Avenue offering "inventive burgers" made with "a mixture of certified Angus chuck and brisket, ground fresh daily in-house" and "fluffy yet substantial buns [that] are baked from scratch every hour." The burgers are "juicy and flavorful and well-seasoned," with topping combos like the Lockhart Legend "dressed with Cheddar, applewood-smoked bacon, a house-made Dr Pepper barbecue sauce, hand-battered onion rings and dill pickles," but there are also chickpea, chicken, tuna, turkey and salmon options. Crawfish pistolettes are "an unexpected delight," and a boozy bourbon-caramel milkshake is "sublime ... and frighteningly easy to drink fast. [DFW.com]
ELSEWHERE: Fort Worth Weekly tried Grapevine's new dive bar Peace Burger; SideDish got a buzz at Mokah Coffee Bar in Deep Ellum; City of Ate tried new Aca Las Tortas in East Dallas; Zagat recommended the brunch at Sissy's; Confection Confessions raved about Oak Cliff's Kessler Cookie Company.
[Photo: Malcolm Mayhew/EDFW]