Critic Leslie Brenner on recently-opened Smyth counterpart The Establishment: "Seriously interesting food at bargain prices" from "a chef you've never heard of" (Brent Hammer) showing "real talent." Dishes like bone marrow custard with guanciale and "house-made pappardelle with suckling pig sugo" are all priced at $10 and $12 — for now, at least. [Eats Blog; Previously]
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