High Praise for Lockhart Smokehouse, & More Reviews

Leslie Brenner reviewed Lockhart Smokehouse Plano: The critic found the barbecue at the original Bishop Arts location "merely very good" when she reviewed it a couple years ago, but this time around she proclaims nearly the entire menu "delicious." Standouts include pork ribs with "just the right smokiness and a bit of tug," moist brisket that's "wonderfully expressive," "meltingly tender" shoulder clod and a pork chop she deems "absolutely sensual." Expect long lines, but it's worth it: "Lockhart Smokehouse Plano stands up there with the barbecue greats." Three stars. [DMN]

Scott Reitz went to Gemma: The food here is "French meets coastal Texas," with "prolific use of seasonal vegetables" and "maybe a bit too much butter, if you want to split hairs." The restaurant has seemingly become a sort of "bubbly outpost outside the bubble" for the Park Cities crowds, who come to bask in the "luxuriously quiet dining room." Best dishes include the sweetbreads with frisee and mustard, "seared to a crunch, yet still tender," and a "surprisingly beautiful" bok choy salad. Braised veal cheeks or duck "are more hearty" yet done with restraint, and any "[kitchen] slips are generally small." Dessert is "worth a visit on its own," particularly a chocolate pine nut tart or cream cheese-stuffed crepes. Overall, "It's not paradise, but it's pretty good." [Observer]

ELSEWHERE: DFW.com reviewed Arlington churrascaria Villa's Grill; Fort Worth Weekly went to Epic Cones; Daniel Vaughn trekked to Post Mountain BBQ in Burnet; City of Ate bravely sampled the Choomongous at Globe Life Park; SideDish raved over the service at Gemma.

[Photo: Lockhart Smokehouse Plano/Facebook]