Leslie Brenner reviewed Victor Tangos: A "young, gorgeous crowd" of "savvy millennials" packs this Henderson hot spot for shareable plates and "some of the most delightfully original" cocktails in the city. Standout dishes include "boiled peanuts jazzed up with Chinese five-spice and vinegar," a "wonderfully springlike" English pea gazpacho and "a buttermilk panna cotta smothered in macerated strawberries and brown butter." On the other hand, "orecchiette carbonara is respectable but soulless." Overall, 29-year-old chef Kirstyn Brewer is "a talented young chef who's still finding her way — and she is absolutely one to watch." Three stars. [DMN]
Scott Reitz went to Chino Chinatown: He declares the dining room "one of the most impressive in Trinity Groves," "with its towering murals, glowing neon and blood-red accents." When it comes to the Latin-Chinese fusion menu, though, results are uneven: Duck fat powder-dusted yucca fries, bone marrow-slathered elotes and chicken wing lollipops make for compelling starters, but many of the other dishes suffer from "loose execution": "Ceviche is covered in a sweet and heavy chile sauce," "pork buns are filled with stringy pork," and the drunken noodles is "a dish so heavy you'll need a support team to finish it." [Observer]
ELSEWHERE: DFW.com tried the burgers at Brewsters in Fort Worth; Fort Worth Weekly checked out Texas Patty Road Burger; SideDish sampled the new menu at Grace; Daniel Vaughn ate barbecue at Ed's Smok-N-Q in San Antonio; The Barbecue Fiend was not impressed by The Bar-B-Q Crib.
[Photo: Margo Sivin/EDFW]