Knife Brings 'Sex Appeal' to the Steakhouse Genre

Teresa Gubbins reviewed Knife: Chef John Tesar's modern steakhouse "brings sex appeal to a genre known for staid, expense-account sameness." The chef "shows a rare understanding of, and respect for, salads," including a unique pea shoot salad featuring pea sorbet. "Everyone gets the bacon tasting," which "[seems] like a tongue-in-cheek response to the bacon mania gripping our land." Steaks are "crusted in salt and roughly cracked pepper, and cooked with care." Pork belly buns disappoint, but beef tongue is "incredibly tender," and the American cheese-topped burger is a standout, served with "thick, skin-on french fries." [DFW.com]

Scott Reitz checked out Bowen House: This vintage shop turned cocktail bar is mixing up some pretty great custom drinks based on patron's preferences, or order a concoction from the rotating chalkboard menu. "If the food kept up with the drinking here, Bowen House could be a compelling home away from home. But what emerges from the kitchen from behind the bar is almost always mediocre," says Reitz. The best bet is a bacon cheeseburger served up on an English muffin, though "the fries that shared the plate were straight from a freezer bag." Overall, "the food doesn't match the black and white art that hangs on the walls." [Observer]

Leslie Brenner went to Odd Duck in Austin: The critic decided to take her reviews on the road this week, lavishing Bryce Gilmore's already acclaimed restaurant with a whopping four stars. She declares it road trip-worthy and "was wowed by nearly everything [she] tasted," including "an outsized platter of fabulous fried chicken" served with grilled zucchini salad and steamed buns. [DMN]

ELSEWHERE: Fort Worth Weekly reviewed Hanabi Ramen & Izakaya; Daniel Vaughn went to Naaman's Championship BBQ in Texarkana; DFW.com went to Hollywood Burger in Saginaw;