Pat Sharpe reviewed San Salvaje: The Texas Monthly critic says the menu at Stephan Pyles' newest venture "is the most novel [she's] seen in a very long time, and that's saying something." A riff on Brazil's "earthy stew" known as feijoada made with pork cheeks is one of the best dishes she tried; the cold Peruvian potato dish known causa limeña and salmon tiradito are also standouts. Overall, San Salvaje is "delightfully unpredictable" and "accessible but exotic." [TxMo]
Scott Reitz checked out Vagabond: "Music venues aren't usually known for the food they serve," but this Lower Greenville bar is putting out some "excellent" food. Burgers suffer from some insistency, but "turn out to be great more often than not"; topping options include everything from bone marrow mayo to brie, and duck fat steak fries are a worthy accompaniment. The veggie burger is "dry and bland," but a chicken option is surprisingly good, especially a fried version "topped with a sticky, sweet jalapeño jam." [Observer]
Leslie Brenner went to Pera Wine and Tapas: The critic proclaims the second venture from the Pera Turkish Kitchen owners a welcome addition to Far North Dallas. The menu is divided into $6 items ("more like appetizers") and $12 items ("more like small versions of main courses"); best options include pachanga borek, crispy phyllo rolls stuffed with a sort of Turkish pastrami, "a grilled eggplant caviar with a lovely hit of dill," and a feta dip with tomatoes, though the latter two would be better served with something besides the "thick slices of baguette" that oddly accompany them. Less successful dishes included grilled sardine crostini and "dried-out, charred octopus tentacles." There are some good affordable wine options, "but the reds are served too warm and the glasses are overpoured" (which is probably not a bad thing for most people?). [DMN]
ELSEWHERE: City of Ate checked out Bonchon's dismal replacement Bonchon and Carrollton's Al Markaz; Fort Worth Weekly went to Vance Godbey's and Fork in the Road; DFW.com tried Taziki's Mediterranean Cafe in Southlake and Mo's Best Eatery in Arlington; Daniel Vaughn trekked to Texarkana to review Naaman's Championship BBQ.