Scott Reitz reviewed Scotch & Sausage: Whiskey with sausage is "as likely a pairing as limoncello with steaks," but the large steins of beer seem to make more sense as a pairing. The standout item here is the triple-cooked french fries, "wrapped in a thick, crisp crust that envelopes potato flesh that has been reduced to some sort of magical purée." When it comes to tube meats, "the most traditional sausages are the strongest: the bratwursts, the bangers, the hot dogs wrapped in bacon," though they're sometimes overcooked and/or served on stale buns. Vegetarian options include "a chipotle sausage that was surprisingly juicier than many of its meaty counterparts." [Observer]
Nancy Nichols checked out Stock & Barrel: While the critic found plenty to like at Jon Stevens' Bishop Arts restaurant, she also thinks "he needs to get out of his comfort zone." She declares most of the menu items "heavy, almost wintery offerings" that will be better suited to colder temperatures. Standout dishes include speck, fava and mascarpone crostini (Nichols says "I could have eaten 10 pieces") and gazpacho; meatloaf was "severely overcooked and dry." The wine list "is comfortable and unpretentious," but lacks options for the adventurous. Do not miss the toffee croissant bread pudding. [D]
Leslie Brenner went to The Mercury: Flattering lighting and a refreshing lack of a craft cocktail list delight the critic at this clubby North Dallas staple. Chef Chris Ward's "dishes manage to be at once modern and old-school," like "a vibrant steak tartare, served with a cone of exemplary frites" and veal milanese with spaetzle. 48-hour braised, medium-rare short ribs ("a sous-vide trick, and a pretty brilliant one") are a must. "The wine list could use a little attention," but desserts, including creme brulee and souffles, make for a sweet ending. Overall, it's "a place where you can count on eating well and having a delightful time." Three stars. [DMN]
ELSEWHERE: SideDish checked out Proof & Pantry; Escape Hatch ate at Hibiscus; DFW.com ate Neapolitan pizza at the new Whole Foods in Colleyville and sent their BBQ Safari to Mama Faye's in Deep Ellum; The Taco Trail had the whole pig's head at Knife.
