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'Hibiscus is Better Than Ever,' Says Brenner

Leslie Brenner lavishes four stars on Hibiscus; Scott Reitz reviews So & So's.

Photo: Hibiscus

Leslie Brenner reviewed Hibiscus: The critic reviews the Henderson Avenue mainstay for the first time since former Central 214 chef Graham Dodds went solo in the kitchen, and declares it "an outstanding chef-driven, farm-to-table Modern Texan restaurant." The charcuterie board "is one of the best in a city that has no shortage of them." The menu changes frequently, but standout dishes on the critic's visits included a fried okra salad with tomatoes and cucumbers," pan-roasted bobtail quail on perfect grits" with pig ear slaw, and "lusciously saucy open-faced wild-mushroom ravioli showered with shaved black truffles." If there's a low point, it's that "the desserts don't live up to the rest of the menu." Four stars. [DMN]

Scott Reitz checked out So & So's: The chef at this McKinney Avenue "come as you are" bar, Nick Amoriello, "steps up to his plates with lofty aspirations" — and "When he connects ... the results can be out-of-the-park good." The critic's favorite dishes include "a brilliant pork chop paired with cream cheese grits and quartered figs," hamachi crudo and an unusual oven-roasted avocado with yogurt sauce and "spicy Rice Krispies." There were some misses, though, including "dry, overcooked" chicken and dumplings and a clunky pork belly and guacamole dish. Burgers are "serviceable" and the pizza is too, but the bar food staple of chicken wings are "rubbery." In Reitz's opinion, "Amoriello should consider tapering some of the most ambitious dishes back so they fit in a little better and focus on refining that execution." [Observer]

ELSEWHERE: DFW.com reviewed Simmer in Coppell; TMBBQ went to David's Barbecue in Pantego and Double G Pit Stop in San Saba; SideDish ate at Russo's Coal-Fired Pizza in Richardson; Zagat ate at the new East Hampton Sandwich Co. in Fort Worth.

Hibiscus

2927 N Henderson Ave, Dallas, TX 75206 214 827 2927 Visit Website

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