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Critics Have Mixed Feelings on Clark Food & Wine and Oso

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Rounding up the week's restaurant reviews.

Clark Food & Wine

Leslie Brenner reviewed Clark Food & Wine Co.: The critic "senses that [chef-owner Randall] Warder couldn’t decide" what exactly he wanted his restaurant to be. The proclaimed "new Texas smokehouse vibe" is reflected with smoked meats like chicken (excellent) and brisket (disappointing), but then "[veers] off into the Mediterranean or middle America so often that the experience felt unfocused." Best dishes include "crisply fried artichoke hearts dabbed with green goddess dressing" and smoked catfish dip. Overall, Brenner "found the food generally appealing and well-prepared, but not particularly original or interesting." Two stars. [DMN]

Scott Reitz checked out Oso Food & Wine: The Mediterranean-leaning North Dallas spot from Kelly Hightower and Michael Cox is "a surprising new restaurant that fits perfectly in its neighborhood," though not all the dishes are successful. Low points included a pasta dish involving "bright magenta goop" and an unevenly cooked pork chop; much more impressive were seared tuna with grilled eggplant tabouli, a "well-seared" sirloin kebab with saffron-pistachio rice, and "flavorful and tender" chicken meatballs; a mezze plate is a must. Desserts, including date cake and a chocolate "harem", are solid all around. [Observer]

(Ed. note: Please, no more restaurants called "Something Food & Wine.")

ELSEWHERE: DFW.com reviewed Wild Mushroom Steak House and Hedary's Mediterranean Restaurant in Fort Worth; TMBBQ went to Chuck's Country Smoke House in Carthage; City of Ate ate a tasty burger at Remedy and a terrible one at Henderson Avenue Country Club.

Oso Food and Wine

11910 Preston Rd, Dallas, TX 75230 (972) 789-1630

Clark Food & Wine Co.

1920 Greenville Ave, Dallas, TX 75206 (214) 515-5500 Visit Website

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