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Brenner Lavishes Four Stars on Neighborhood Services Addison

Plus, Teresa Gubbins on Henry's Majestic and Scott Reitz eats some crappy Italian food.

Neighborhood Services Addison.
Neighborhood Services Addison.
Lori Bandi/EDFW

Leslie Brenner reviewed Neighborhood Services Addison: Nick Badovinus "delivers big time" with the newest addition to his NHS mini-empire. Brenner loves just about everything here, from the lighting ("which flatters food and face") and "the top-notch service" to a "perfect" veal schnitzel with black pepper spaetzle and "meaty fried quail legs [that] are a delicious spin on Buffalo wings." Burgers are some of "the best in town" and aged steaks are "well-seasoned and gorgeously seared ... with superb depth of flavor." A "whiskey-kissed butterscotch pot de crème" for dessert is a must. [DMN]

Teresa Gubbins checked out Henry's Majestic: The food here "feels a little like glorified bar grub ... but done well," including "hearty" mushroom arancini, "a rich and delectably flavorful" burger made with Akaushi beef and bone marrow, and "an upscale yet traditional approach" to the Vietnamese soup pho. A signature oyster dish and desserts impressed less. The reasonably-priced cocktail menu, which showcases "on-trend techniques such as drinking vinegars," has earned Henry's Majestic "a berth in Dallas’ mixology scene, drawing drinkers and bartenders alike." [DFW.com]

Scott Reitz went to Cucina Neighborhood Italian: Sadly, this Mi Piaci replacement in Preston Center "is not the red-sauce savior Dallas needs." Much of the menu is "fraught with goofy missteps," including chicken parm that's plagued by watery tomato sauce and housemade "gelato" punctuated by unpleasant ice crystals. A notable exception: "the best fried ravioli" of the critic's life, "packed with so much light and fluffy ricotta they almost split at the seams." Servers "seem checked out and undertrained," and the dining room is "cavernous and lonely," even on the weekends. [Observer]

ELSEWHERE: DFW.com tried Dallas Grilled Cheese Co.; City of Ate had dessert at Velvet Taco and discovered the charm of Melios Bros.' Char Bar on Lower Greenville; Daniel Vaughn tried the questionably-named Nutter Buster BBQ truck in Austin.

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