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One Star for 'Mighty Odd' Nick & Sam's Grill Park Cities

Plus, Scott Reitz weighs in on Clark Food & Wine Co.

Nick & Sam's Grill Park Cities: very much a "Bubble" restaurant, says Mark Vamos.
Nick & Sam's Grill Park Cities: very much a "Bubble" restaurant, says Mark Vamos.
Nick & Sam's Grill Park Cities/Facebook

Mark Vamos skewered Nick & Sam's Grill Park Cities: Some of the steaks here are "outstanding," but they're also very pricey and served strictly a la carte. "The rest of the menu is something of a minefield," from a bizarre fish dish ("a thin slice of swordfish breaded and fried, which ends up being an unfortunate thing to do to swordfish") to "leathery, dank onion rings" and "an extraordinarily misbegotten idea served forth here as spicy tuna sushi." One star; do read the full review to find out how the "ham-handed" servers managed to make Vamos "feel alternately like a rube and a skinflint." [DMN]

Scott Reitz went to Clark Food & Wine Co.: The critic has trouble deciphering exactly what type of restaurant chef Randall Warder is aiming for, but nonetheless finds "more hits than misses": "a crab salad that more chefs in Dallas should imitate," a carefully composed Cobb salad, and lightly smoked Arctic char with "wet and glistening flesh." Skip the heavily breaded oysters and smoked brisket that "will barely earn a passing grade from most barbecue eaters." [Observer]

ELSEWHERE: Daniel Vaughn went to Hickory Hill BBQ in Tyler; Nancy Nichols had brunch at So & So's; City of Ate tried a terrible burger at Eureka! in the West Village; reviewed Grapevine antique mall restaurant Mason & Dixie and a Neapolitan pizza place, Slice, in Aledo, while their resident vegetarian rounded up Fort Worth's best juice spots.

Nick & Sam's Grill

8111 Preston Rd., Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 379-1111 Visit Website

Clark Food & Wine Co.

1920 Greenville Ave, Dallas, TX 75206 (214) 515-5500 Visit Website