This week Leslie Brenner trekked to Trinity Groves to file a review on Saint Rocco's, Phil Romano's old-school red-sauce Italian spot. "Most of [the food] is pretty good," she proclaims — then she reaches deep into her critical soul and emerges with these words:
In the course of three visits, nothing I sampled was underseasoned or overseasoned, nor was anything undercooked or overcooked.
Anyway, stick to the classics (veal Milanese, calamari, a "Sicilian" twist on lasagna) and you'll do just fine here. Two stars.
Resident is a taqueria for sure, but don’t come looking for freshly grilled suadero garnished with cilantro and onions or pork freshly shaved from the trompo. ... The recipes aren’t conventional, but the flavors speak honestly and consistently deliver.
Reitz stops short of choosing favorites from the taco menu, but does concede that the guacamole, blasphemously garnished with green peas, is pretty damn good.
In other reviews news this week: D's Eve Hill-Agnus also reviewed Saint Rocco's (spoiler: she has mixed feelings about the food, but digs the old-school atmosphere), and the Fort Worth Star-Telegram found uneven cooking from the new chef at Cafe Modern inside the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth.