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Week In Reviews Part Deux: Fearing’s Earns Four Stars & The Theodore’s Winning Streak Continues

Plus D Magazine critic Eve Hill-Agnus on 18th & Vine, Pink Magnolia and Fortune House.

Dean Fearing is still the master of Southwestern cuisine.
Dean Fearing is still the master of Southwestern cuisine.

It’s been a busy week for restaurant reviews, even with the holidays. This week, Dallas Morning News contributor Mark Vamos reviewed Fearing’s, Southwestern culinary legend Dean Fearing’s long-standing restaurant in Uptown’s Ritz Carlton Hotel. Not surprisingly, Fearing is still knocking it out of the park, especially where his love of wild game is concerned:

There's the lush, juicy buffalo tenderloin, marinated for 36 hours in maple syrup and black pepper for a slightly sweet kick, served on zippy jalapeño grits with a smoky chile aioli. And there was a crazy-good special of antelope one evening: beautifully tender, rosy meat drizzled with a rich mustard jus, accompanied by green beans topped with crispy tobacco onions and a little cast-iron pot of horseradish scalloped potatoes.

Vamos also compliments Fearing’s treatment of "conventional critters," like the chef’s filet & chicken-fried lobster. He does, however, register a few gripes – a few dishes were heavy-handed with extra touches, and service at the always-pricey restaurant isn’t always top-notch. Four stars.

The Dallas Observer’s Kellie Reynolds filed a review of Tim Byres’ new swanky mall dining spot The Theodore, and found plenty to write home about:

Relaxed and comfortable though it may be, an evening here feels refined and elegant. Beautiful linens are placed before you while servers tend to details as if you are a guest of Mr. Roosevelt himself. Before dinner, a cocktail such as the Redwood — with the sweetness of house-made jam to play against the bitterness of Campari — awakens the palate. Only a starter of sourdough toasts with cured ham and horseradish egg salad was too subtle — my companion and I were left wanting more of the characteristic zing of horseradish.

As the Observer’s resident desserts expert, Reynolds also complimented The Theodore’s honey-grapefruit baked Alaska, and "a lovely trio" of deep-fried jelly rolls on the brunch menu.

Elsewhere, D Magazine released reviews for their January 2016 issue this week, featuring critic Eve Hill-Agnus’ take on date-night BBQ spot 18th & Vine. Hill-Agnus noted the restaurant’s smoky aroma, which can be huffed from the parking lot, and Chef Scott Gottlich’s ability to "assert his voice without breaking continuity" with his chef-driven dishes that can be found alongside smokehouse staples.

Perhaps feeling a little holiday generosity, Hill-Agnus also raved about dishes she had at Blythe Beck’s Pink Magnolia and Irving Shanghai eatery Fortune House.

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