clock menu more-arrow no yes

Filed under:

Week In Reviews Part Deux: Fearing’s Earns Four Stars & The Theodore’s Winning Streak Continues

Plus D Magazine critic Eve Hill-Agnus on 18th & Vine, Pink Magnolia and Fortune House.

Dean Fearing is still the master of Southwestern cuisine.
Dean Fearing is still the master of Southwestern cuisine.
Fearing's

It’s been a busy week for restaurant reviews, even with the holidays. This week, Dallas Morning News contributor Mark Vamos reviewed Fearing’s, Southwestern culinary legend Dean Fearing’s long-standing restaurant in Uptown’s Ritz Carlton Hotel. Not surprisingly, Fearing is still knocking it out of the park, especially where his love of wild game is concerned:

There's the lush, juicy buffalo tenderloin, marinated for 36 hours in maple syrup and black pepper for a slightly sweet kick, served on zippy jalapeño grits with a smoky chile aioli. And there was a crazy-good special of antelope one evening: beautifully tender, rosy meat drizzled with a rich mustard jus, accompanied by green beans topped with crispy tobacco onions and a little cast-iron pot of horseradish scalloped potatoes.

Vamos also compliments Fearing’s treatment of "conventional critters," like the chef’s filet & chicken-fried lobster. He does, however, register a few gripes – a few dishes were heavy-handed with extra touches, and service at the always-pricey restaurant isn’t always top-notch. Four stars.

The Dallas Observer’s Kellie Reynolds filed a review of Tim Byres’ new swanky mall dining spot The Theodore, and found plenty to write home about:

Relaxed and comfortable though it may be, an evening here feels refined and elegant. Beautiful linens are placed before you while servers tend to details as if you are a guest of Mr. Roosevelt himself. Before dinner, a cocktail such as the Redwood — with the sweetness of house-made jam to play against the bitterness of Campari — awakens the palate. Only a starter of sourdough toasts with cured ham and horseradish egg salad was too subtle — my companion and I were left wanting more of the characteristic zing of horseradish.

As the Observer’s resident desserts expert, Reynolds also complimented The Theodore’s honey-grapefruit baked Alaska, and "a lovely trio" of deep-fried jelly rolls on the brunch menu.

Elsewhere, D Magazine released reviews for their January 2016 issue this week, featuring critic Eve Hill-Agnus’ take on date-night BBQ spot 18th & Vine. Hill-Agnus noted the restaurant’s smoky aroma, which can be huffed from the parking lot, and Chef Scott Gottlich’s ability to "assert his voice without breaking continuity" with his chef-driven dishes that can be found alongside smokehouse staples.

Perhaps feeling a little holiday generosity, Hill-Agnus also raved about dishes she had at Blythe Beck’s Pink Magnolia and Irving Shanghai eatery Fortune House.

Sign up for the newsletter Sign up for the Eater Dallas newsletter

The freshest news from the local food world