Small Brewpub's Food is 'Delightfully Defiant,' Says Brenner

Leslie Brenner reviewed Small Brewpub: The plates former FT33 sous chef Misti Norris are putting out at this recent Jefferson Boulevard addition look "like something you’d find in a four- or five-star restaurant," though "her flavors [are] bigger and bolder than her mentor’s." Norris's cooking is "original," "thoughtful," and "extremely ambitious" for the laid-back bar setting. Standout dishes include wild boar boudin balls, chicken feet, and housemade charcuterie. Overall, it's "a great place to experience some of the most interesting and ambitious cooking in Dallas at the moment." Three stars. [DMN]

Scott Reitz went to Pera Wine Bistro: This is the third restaurant from the brothers behind Pera Turkish Kitchen and Pera Wine and Tapas, and it's really "more of a café, despite its name." Grilled kebabs of beef, chicken, or salmon are all good options, as are tabbouleh, hummus, and dolmas; skip the falafel, though, as "the flavor is fine but the texture is Play-Doh." The biggest disappointment here seems to be the bread, "a locally baked lavash-style flatbread that serves its purpose" but doesn't compare to the far superior versions served at the other Pera restaurants. The price point is right, though, "with entrees hovering at $11." [Observer]

ELSEWHERE: SideDish ranked delivery egg drop soups; City of Ate checked out Company Cafe spinoff Back Home Barbecue and a no-good burger at Yolk; Daniel Vaughn checked out the BBQ Godfather truck in Spring; DFW.com went to Olives Mediterranean Grill in Arlington.