Gemma 'Now Deserves Four Stars,' Says Brenner

Leslie Brenner went to Gemma: This re-review comes just one year after Brenner's first verdict on Gemma. She bumps them up from her previous three-star rating, declaring that Stephen Rogers and Allison Yoder's Henderson Avenue spot "now deserves four stars." While much of the dinner menu has remained the same, Brenner says "the cooking has sharpened." Housemade pastas are "delicious and comforting," and a larger late-night menu "has helped turned Gemma into one of the very best places to eat after a concert or show" with options like duck fried rice and confit chicken drumsticks. Don't skip dessert, as "[pastry chef Stephanie] Childress is a wizard of frozen treats." [DMN]

Scott Reitz reviewed Remedy: HG Sply Co. owner Elias Pope is putting a fresh spin on the soda fountain. "[Chef Danyele] McPherson's cooking honors the familiar, but her ingredients are anything but." Housemade bologna is "sliced razor-thin and fan-folded between toasted slices of challah bread" for "a decadent take on a classic," and a fish sandwich "is a near copy of the blue paper-wrapped sandwich" from McDonald's, improved with higher-quality redfish and "blistered and crispy" fries. Pastry Chef Gmo Tristan "will have grandmothers all over Texas throwing in the towel with his pie-making"; get the coconut cream if it's available. [Observer]

Eve Hill-Agnus checked out Oso Food & Wine: Restaurateur Michael Cox and chef Kelly Hightower have created "an oasis of calm, tastefulness, and elegance" in a Preston-Forest strip mall. Starters "take diners on a tour of the Mediterranean," including an excellent lamb kofte and chorizo-stuffed bacon-wrapped dates. A daily rotating crudo always impresses, and the mezze platter offers "a showcase of masterfully interpreted staples" including hummus, baba ghanouj, and "some of the best falafel [she's] had." Some of the entrees could use improving, like a lamb shank with an overly reduced, too-sweet sauce; bigeye tuna with harissa and tabbouleh is a standout. Service is "courteous, attentive, understated." [D]

ELSEWHERE: D reviewed Goodfriend and Mesero; City of Ate tried the burger at Luscher's, dessert at Sundown, and ramen at Irving's Maki Boy; Daniel Vaughn went to Off the Bone BBQ; Fort Worth Weekly went to Thirteen Pies and Mama Tiki's Thai Food; DFW.com checked out Social House Fort Worth and Arlington breakfast spot Old West Cafe.