Critics Weigh In on Sushi Bayashi and Yutaka Sushi Bistro

Scott Reitz reviewed Sushi Bayashi: The recent Japanese addition to Trinity Groves offers "one of the most convincing spaces in Trinity Groves," though not all of the food matches up. (Reitz also wonders "how Tom Petty's 'Free Fallin' is meant to fit into the decor.") Fried things here are generally very good, including agedashi tofu in a "pool of savory mushroom broth," fried chicken gizzards, and octopus croquettes. The sushi, however, "looks a lot like what cowboys might prepare, given a side of tuna and a rusty blade," and is often overstuffed or suffering from dry rice. Reitz declares the tonkotsu ramen standard; more interesting is the chanpon noodle soup, a soy milk-enriched broth with seafood. [Dallas Observer]

Leslie Brenner reviewed Yutaka Sushi Bistro: The critic concludes what many Dallasites already know to be true — that this tiny restaurant on McKinney Avenue "serves the best sushi in Dallas proper." Rice is generally "well-seasoned, with a faint and pleasant vinegar tang," and "best of all, unlike many sushi bars where the fish is simply sliced and flopped naked onto the rice, [owner Yutaka] Yamato enhances many of them with a sauce or cure, as fitting for each fish." A wide array of seafood is always available, "and it's always expertly sliced." Recent standouts include yellowtail ("superb, buttery and rich") and "spectacular" uni. Omakase is "very good, though not astoundingly so," and most of the non-sushi offerings are "well-prepared but lackluster, with few fresh ideas." Nonetheless, four stars. [Dallas Morning News]

Eve Hill-Agnus reviewed Henry's Majestic: Chef Roe DiLeo "knows how to make ostensibly ordinary things memorable," from French toast with cardamom whipped cream and "humble onion dip" to anise-rubbed pork belly with grits and a "Latin riff on eggs Benedict" with al pastor, scallion corn cakes, and lime crema. A bone marrow burger is "pure decadence." Less successful were a bland ribeye sandwich and meatballs in a much-too-sweet bourbon sauce. Service is sweet and attentive, "without an ounce of pretension." [D Magazine]

ELSEWHERE: D went to Daddy Jack's and Rodeo Goat; City of Ate checked out the resurrection of Mr. Max; SideDish evaluated pancakes; DFW.com ate Turkish food in Fort Worth and dined at a car museum.