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Critics Weigh In on ZaLat Pizza and Heim Barbecue

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Plus, Leslie Brenner on Truluck's.

ZaLat Pizza/Facebook

Scott Reitz reviewed ZaLat Pizza: Ordering from the late-night DaLat sibling via text message is easier than calling Domino's, "and more often than not, your interaction with ZaLat will be ... more gratifying." Pizzas here suffer from a lack of consistency, with crusts that can range from tender to tough. But the Reuben "is good if you're feeling adventurous, and "a plain cheese is also a safe bet," particularly when dipped in a side of Srirancha ranch. Some of the pies suffered from an excess of mozzarella, but Reitz solved that problem by specifying "light cheese" when ordering. Overall, "For all the inconsistency, ZaLat provides an exceedingly enjoyable pizza experience." [Dallas Observer]

Malcolm Mayhew went to Heim Barbecue: This trailer from Fort Worth couple Travis and Emma Heim is "only open two days a week, and only for a few hours each day," but those who seek it out are "in for some remarkably good barbecue." Meats are smoked over post oak for up to 16 hours, and it pays off: The brisket is compared to that from "Central Texas greats such as Snow’s or Louie Mueller, admirably vivid and rich in flavor, tender in texture." Pork spare ribs are also recommended, "meaty and juicy, with candied edges." Don't miss the "highly addicting" bacon burnt ends. Sides are "welcome respites from the usual," including a loaded baked potato-esque potato salad. "With barbecue this good," the Heims really ought "to add four walls and a roof," Mayhew proclaims. [Fort Worth Star-Telegram]

Leslie Brenner checked out Truluck's: It may be "the best place in town" to indulge in currently-in-season Florida stone crab claws, with "firm, sweet, succulent" meat, but prepare to pony up the big bucks: "A single jumbo claw (5 to 8 ounces, including the heavy shell), will set you back 25 smackeroos." King crab legs and Dungeness are pricey too, but shellfish is definitely the best reason to come here: Other "main courses are generally fine but undistinguished," a chopped salad looked "like something scooped from the garbage disposal," and "calamari was flat-out soggy, and served lukewarm." In summation, "in a city where options for seafood lovers are slim, it’s nice to have Truluck’s — and its terrific crabs — in the mix." Two stars. [Dallas Morning News]

ELSEWHERE: D reviewed Remedy and The Mansion; City of Ate had the burger at Ten Bells Tavern and sampled ice cream sandwiches; Mark Vamos tried Richardson's Sichuan King; Teresa Gubbins went to Grapevine's Brooklyn Crust Bistro; Daniel Vaughn ate South Texas-style barbecue at El Machito in San Antonio.