Critics Weigh In on C'Viche, Luscher's, Braindead, and Dish

Teresa Gubbins weighed in on Braindead Brewing: There's lots to like at this Deep Ellum brewpub, "especially if you are a craft-beer fan in your 30s." The menu leans "contemporary foodie and home-style Texan"; standout dishes include the "decadent, almost over-the-top" Coma Burger with onion jam and smoked cheddar and warm chocolate chip oatmeal cookies "accompanied by a glass of thick chocolate milk fortified with stout." Vegetarian-friendly dishes such as curry roasted cauliflower and Brussels sprouts could use some fine-tuning. [Fort Worth Star-Telegram]

Leslie Brenner reviewed Dish Preston Hollow: This followup to the Cedar Springs-born concept "has much in common with the original," but it's also got some personality of its own thanks to chef Andrew Bell. Brenner's favorite dishes include "fun and festive" calamari with "buffalo butter," a "thick and succulent" pork chop that comes "smothered in a saucy, arugula-laced ragu of diced Granny Smith apples, onions and bacon," and "smooth-textured lamb meatball 'lollipops' parked on almond hummus." A gigantic list of cocktails are mixed and served with care, and the wine list from sommelier Brandon Smoot is rife with "enticing selections from around the world." [Dallas Morning News]

Mark Vamos went to C'Viche: Clark Food & Wine Co.'s next-door sibling is "ultracasual," "bright and beachy" with a menu to match. Peruvian-style halibut ceviche with corn, red onion, carrot, and cilantro is "lovely, refreshing and bracing," as is a Baja-style tuna ceviche with avocado, tomato, and jalapeño. Shrimp aguachile is "startlingly good," though tuna poke suffers from a cloyingly sweet sauce. Wash it all down with "one of the terrific tropical cocktails." [Dallas Morning News]

Scott Reitz checked out Luscher's: The Grape chef-owner Brian Luscher's new Deep Ellum spot isn't a burger joint, but it's worth a visit to try the Uncle Herky, "a double-patty monster boasting a mudslide of American cheese and grilled onions on a soft, pillowy bun." The Italian beef sandwich benefits from "a heavy ladle of pan drippings" and crunchy, fresh giardiniera, but the focus here is of course the Red Hots, which are a far cry from "that smooth, homogenous meat-paste" most hot dogs are made of. Coarsely ground and well-seasoned, the classic option is the best — served "on a soft, poppy seed bun with relish, mustard, white onions, tomatoes, pickles and sport peppers." Onion rings "covered in a thick, craggy batter" best the fries, "except on Tuesdays, when the spuds are fried in beef tallow for an extra-crisp exterior." [Dallas Observer]