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The Standard Pour Impresses Leslie Brenner

Plus, reviews for Campestre Chula Vista and Twenty Seven.

Three stars for The Standard Pour.
Three stars for The Standard Pour.
Kevin Marple

Leslie Brenner reviewed The Standard Pour: Chef Cody Sharp is giving Uptown drinkers "some delicious dishes to soak up all the booze." Menu standouts include "superb fried chicken taken all the way to a deeply burnished mahogany crunch," 'nduja deviled eggs, and "a beautifully roasted chicken" over heirloom bean salad. Cocktails courtesy of bar manager Brian McCullough "still rock," and the menu is well-priced with most dishes coming in under $20. The brunch menu isn't quite as successful as dinner, but don't sleep on the "warm doughnuts, lemon-glazed or dusted in cinnamon sugar." Overall, "Sharp has the rare gift of being able to coax greatness out of the most basic dishes while still honoring their simplicity." Three stars — not too shabby for a bar. [Dallas Morning News]

Scott Reitz went to Campestre Chula Vista: The new restaurant from the folks behind Revolver Taco Lounge may be "located in what looks like a giant cartoon castle at the top of a hill ... but the unnerving locale and facade are part of the charm." Grab a table on the patio to enjoy "what may be the most scenic dining in Fort Worth," along with some seriously good food: red snapper ceviche, queso fundido with housemade tortillas ("really the very best reason for coming here"), and "roasted young goat that arrives soaking in a sauce the color of rich mahogany." In summary, it's "a restaurant that’s worth a visit no matter how hard it is to find." [Dallas Observer]

Eve Hill-Agnus checked out Twenty Seven: The Deep Ellum restaurant from pop-up chef David Anthony Temple is "open only three nights a week" for prix-fixe seatings with four tasting menu options. The best of the bunch was probably the vegetarian choice, relying on local, seasonal produce like fiddleheads and wild mushrooms. But execution errors abound across the board; the critic complains of "thin, uninspiring" turtle soup, an "over-salted crab [salad] with rancid sunflower seeds and an odd sweet-and-sour dressing," "soppy couscous and lumpy polenta," and "a blunt hand with seasonings that made flavors muddy." The overall impression is of "youth in the kitchen, wanting to wow but overreaching its skill, coming up short." [D Magazine]

ELSEWHERE: D reviewed Savor and Javier's; DFW.com checked out VertsKebap and also weighed in on Campestre Chula Vista; Fort Worth Weekly went to Arlington's Taste of Europe and Fort Worth's Imponente Pizza & Pasta.

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